The early 1900’s were met with a shortage of precious metals, as they were used to help fund the war efforts. Jewellery disappeared almost altogether, aside from a few trinkets, talismans or good luck charms. A rise and fall of trends had started in the last years of the 19th century – including Art Nouveau and the Arts & Crafts Movement. The rococo style of Lois XVI, with his elaborate cartouches and rocaille decorations had created an endless pool of inspiration to the flagging jewellers. Garlands, bows, paired and single hearts and interwoven ribbon designs were all desired designs of this era. Classic black and white became the alternative to solemn all black mourning jewellery. Platinum, when available, was used in preference to gold as it was able to produce more intricate and fine pieces of work. Towards the end of the era, jewellery was worn in abundance, with ladies wearing chokers with sautoirs, bracelets on both arms and rings on every finger. New gemstones were started filtering through – pale sapphire found in Montana, fire opal from Mexico, black opal from Australia and demantoid garnet from The Urals - adding to the already widely used amethyst, peridot and turquoise. Traditional cutting styles were found to be limiting the creativity of designs, so calibre cuts were now applied to ruby, emerald and sapphires.